A couple of weeks ago, wine writer Julian Park and his wife Judy were visiting us at Lightning Rock.
We were sitting together talking about wine, the industry and how much things are changing when Julian and Judy asked me a deceptively simple question:
How do we get more people interested in wine?
I’ve been thinking about that question ever since.
My first answer was pretty simple.
We could start by making wine less intimidating.
I enjoy wine. I’ve built a winery around it. I work with people who know far more about winemaking than I ever will, and I’m enormously proud of the wines we produce.
But sometimes I think our industry has forgotten why most people open a bottle of wine in the first place.
It’s usually not to conduct a sensory experiment.
It’s because they’re having dinner with friends.
They’re sitting on the patio with someone they love. They’re celebrating a birthday. They’re bringing a bottle to someone’s house. They’re having pizza on a Friday night. They’re sitting around a table at Christmas. Or maybe they’re just opening a bottle after a long day.
Wine is for lovers, friends and family.
Somewhere along the way, we made it more complicated than that.
Walk into some wineries and it can feel as though you’re expected to know the language before you arrive.
What varietals do you normally drink?
What are you tasting?
Do you understand whole-cluster fermentation, lees ageing, clones, disgorgement dates or French versus American oak?
There is absolutely a place for all of that. Wine is fascinating. The more you learn, the more there is to discover.
But you shouldn’t have to know any of it to enjoy a glass of wine.
If somebody comes into Lightning Rock and tells me, “I don’t know anything about wine, but I really like this one,” I think that’s a wonderful answer.
You like it!
That’s enough.
Maybe you’ll want to know why you like it. Maybe you’ll become fascinated by the vineyard it came from or how Sébastien made it. Maybe five years from now you’ll know more about Pinot Noir than I do.
Or maybe you won’t.
Either is perfectly fine.
Our job shouldn’t be to demonstrate how much we know about wine. Our job should be to help you find something you enjoy.
This might get me into trouble with a few people in the wine business.
I think we put far too much emphasis on tasting notes.
Cherry. Cassis. Graphite. Forest floor. Tobacco. Brioche. Wet stone.
There’s nothing wrong with those descriptions. They can be useful, especially for people who want to learn more about wine.
The problem starts when they make someone think they’re drinking the wine incorrectly because they can’t find the graphite.
Two people can drink exactly the same wine and experience it differently.
That’s part of the fun.
Instead of asking someone, “What are you tasting?” maybe we should start with a much easier question:
Do you like it?
If the answer is yes, we’re off to a pretty good start.
We hear constantly that younger generations aren’t interested in wine and that the future of the industry is bleak.
I think that’s too simple.
Young people still go out. They still have dinner together. They go to concerts, ski, camp, travel, date, celebrate birthdays and gather with friends.
But they have far more choices than my generation ever had.
Craft beer figured out how to be approachable.
Cocktails became fun again.
Ready-to-drink beverages are easy to understand.
Meanwhile, wine can still hand someone a 12-page wine list and make them terrified of ordering the wrong bottle.
Then we wonder why they’re choosing something else.
Maybe the problem isn’t the customer.
Maybe we need to do a better job inviting them in.
There’s another change we need to accept.
Many people are choosing to drink less.
I don’t think the wine industry should fight that.
If someone wants one really good glass of wine instead of three mediocre ones, that’s not necessarily bad news for a small premium winery.
Drink less. Drink better.
Have a glass with dinner. Share a bottle among four people. Open something special because your friends came over.
Wine doesn’t have to win every drinking occasion.
It just needs to matter when people choose it.
At Lightning Rock, we work hard to keep wine fun.
Wine can be serious without taking itself so seriously.
We can talk about vineyards and vintages and farming and winemaking because those things matter enormously to us.
But we can also laugh.
We can open sparkling wine on a Tuesday.
We can drink Pinot Noir with pizza.
We can try something unusual.
We can put Lightning Bolts on a wine label.
And if you want to chill a red wine that someone else says shouldn’t be chilled, I’m certainly not going to come to your house and stop you.
Wine should encourage curiosity, not conformity.
We spend a lot of time in this industry talking about bottles.
I’m not sure bottles are really what we’re selling.
We’re selling what happens when the bottle gets opened.
A dinner that runs two hours longer than expected.
Friends you haven’t seen in six months.
Someone cooking while somebody else stands at the counter with a glass of wine.
A first date.
An anniversary.
Christmas dinner.
A summer afternoon in the Okanagan.
Those are the tasting notes people actually remember.
So I’ve kept thinking about the question Julian and Judy asked me.
How do we get more people interested in wine?
Maybe we stop trying so hard to teach people how they’re supposed to enjoy it.
Open a bottle.
Pour a glass.
Sit down with somebody you like.
Talk.
Laugh.
Eat something.
And if you like what’s in your glass, you’ve already figured out the most important thing you need to know about wine.
Wine is for lovers, friends and family.
That’s the wine culture I’d like us to get back to.
Ron Kubek
Owner, Lightning Rock Winery
Summerland, BC
Chris Herbert tastes three Lightning Rock wines and shares why supporting Summerland matters.
We’re grateful to wine writer Chris Herbert for featuring Lightning Rock Winery in his “Spill that Wine” column, published by the Kimberley Bulletin and Black Press Media.
Chris tasted three wines that tell two important parts of our story: the 2024 Dry Lake Vineyard Chardonnay and 2024 Eagle and Plow Vineyard Malbec from our Cross Border Collection, along with our 2023 Canyonview Vineyard Pinot Noir from Summerland.
The column also looks beyond what is in the glass. Chris spoke with owner Ron Kubek about the barriers that still make it difficult for Canadians to buy Canadian wine directly from another province, and about the effects of the Bald Range wildfire on our winery and community.
“Canadians should be able to buy Canadian.”
Thank you to Chris for sharing our wines and our story, and for encouraging readers to support Summerland wineries, farmers and small businesses.
Read the full column: Spill that Wine: Lightning Rock Summer
Taste the featured wines: Shop Lightning Rock Wines
Three weeks ago, we left Lightning Rock not knowing exactly what we would come back to.
The Bald Range Fire forced the evacuation of our winery, our homes and much of our community. For some families in Summerland, the losses have been devastating. People lost homes and possessions, businesses were disrupted and families were displaced.
Our hearts remain with everyone who has been affected.
For Lightning Rock, we were incredibly fortunate. Our winery and vineyards are standing, our team is safe, and today we get to do something that seemed a long way away a few weeks ago:
We get to open our doors again.
There are a few people we especially want to recognize.
Our winemaker and vineyard manager, Sébastien Hotte, was evacuated along with his fiancée and their young children.
Whenever access was permitted, Sébastien was back checking our properties. He checked the winery, staff housing and vineyards, kept an eye on irrigation and the vines, helped neighbouring farms and vineyards, and made sure our restaurant and private liquor store partners received wine when we were able to get it to them.
All of this while looking after his own evacuated family.
Harvest doesn’t stop getting closer because there’s a wildfire, and neither do vineyards. We are very fortunate to have Sébastien looking after ours.
Our Wine Shop and Tasting Room Manager, Harpreet, was also evacuated. Rather than sitting on the sidelines, she went to work helping others.
Through Penticton Rotary and JCI Penticton, Harpreet spent long 12-14 hour days volunteering and helping feed people affected by the evacuation and fire.
Tracy spent countless hours cleaning and helping get the winery back into shape so we could safely reopen and get ready for harvest.
Ron spent much of the evacuation working with the District of Summerland, provincial government, and emergency officials on problems affecting farmers and wineries throughout the evacuation zone.
For agriculture, limited access isn’t simply an inconvenience. Vineyards and orchards still need irrigation. Crops need to be protected. Livestock needs care. Harvest was approaching.
Ron worked with officials to push for a more practical agricultural access system that would allow farmers and essential workers to reach their properties while still respecting the restrictions required to keep everyone safe. Eventually, improved agricultural access was put in place, allowing Sébastien and other agricultural workers to do more of the work that couldn’t simply wait until the evacuation was over.
There was another problem affecting wineries well beyond Lightning Rock.
Mission Bottle Wash, an important part of the Okanagan wine industry’s bottle supply chain, was caught inside the affected area. Without access, wineries throughout the region faced the possibility of running out of bottles and disrupting bottling schedules at one of the worst possible times of year.
Ron worked with the District, Agriculture Minister Lana Popham’s office and others to help find a solution. It became a good example of what could happen when industry and government worked together to solve a very practical problem during an emergency.
It has been an extraordinary few weeks for a very small team.
One of the things we’ll remember most from these weeks is how many people reached out.
We received emails, phone calls, texts and messages from across British Columbia and Canada asking if we were okay and what people could do to help.
Many of you placed online wine orders.
Others went looking for Lightning Rock at your local private liquor store or ordered our wines at restaurants.
Our restaurant and liquor store partners continued supporting us and ordering our wine during a period when our own tasting room couldn’t welcome a single customer.
Those things mattered.
To everyone who ordered a bottle, sent us a note, checked on our team, shared one of our posts or simply told us you were thinking about Summerland: thank you.
And to the firefighters, first responders, emergency personnel, volunteers, neighbours and community organizations who worked incredibly long hours throughout the fire, our gratitude is difficult to put into words.
We also want to thank the government, municipal and emergency officials who listened when we brought forward problems and worked with us to find solutions. During an emergency, not every decision will be perfect, but we saw people willing to pick up the phone, listen and try to make things work.
Reopening doesn’t mean everything is suddenly back to normal.
There are people in our community who have lost far more than a few weeks of business, and there are local businesses, farms, wineries, cideries, breweries and restaurants that lost an important part of their summer season.
One of the simplest ways to help is to come to Summerland.
Visit the businesses. Eat at the restaurants. Buy local wine, cider and beer. Stay for an afternoon or a weekend. And if you’re elsewhere in BC or Canada, look for Summerland and Okanagan products where you live or order directly from the producers you enjoy.
If you’re able, you can also support wildfire relief directly through the SOS Wildfire Response Fund or Mamas for Mamas – Fire Support, both of which are helping Summerland families and workers who were hit hardest.
Small businesses survive because people choose to support them.
Today, Thursday, August 27, the Lightning Rock tasting room is open again.
We’ll be here 11 AM to 5 PM every day through Thanksgiving.
The vineyards are still here. Harvest is getting closer. There is wine in the tasting room. And after three weeks of talking to far too many people through phones, emails and social media, we’re very ready to see some actual faces again.
Come by for a tasting. See how the vineyards are doing. Say hello to the team.
Most of all, come enjoy Summerland.
We’re incredibly grateful to be home.
Ron, Tracy, Sébastien, Harpreet and the Lightning Rock team
In the News
The Vancouver Sun has published my latest opinion piece on Canada’s new interprovincial alcohol agreement.
I support removing barriers between provinces — but after reading the agreement, I believe it falls well short of genuine free trade.
It still permits provincial liquor board markups, registrations, fees and administrative requirements on Canadian products sold to Canadian consumers.
We can do better.
British Columbia and Ontario could lead by creating a reciprocal market for wines made from 100% Canadian-grown grapes — supporting Canadian grape growers, wineries, workers, tourism and consumers.
This is about offering a solution, not simply identifying a problem.
I’ve posted more information and access to the full article on the Lightning Rock Journal.